Paucartambo spends most of the year as a quiet colonial town that most travelers pass through without stopping. July is different. Between the 15th and 18th the place gets completely overrun, dance…
Christmas Eve in Cusco’s Plaza de Armas doesn’t look like Christmas anywhere else. Thin cold air at 11,000 feet, dried moss smell mixing with incense, thousands of people moving through stalls that…
October changes the character of Cusco’s streets in a specific and visible way. Palo santo smoke thickens the air, deep violet appears everywhere on people who rarely dress that color the rest of the…
Lima hosts a lot of things but nothing quite like Mistura. Hundreds of thousands of people show up across the festival days, locals mixed in with international visitors, master chefs sharing the same…
Most travelers confuse the ancient stone city with the towering peak rising behind it. The citadel is the city center. Machu Picchu Mountain is the balcony seat above everything. Securing a ticket to…
Bus tourists see Machu Picchu. People with a ticket to the Inca Trail arrive through the Sun Gate after days of cloud forest, ruins, and high mountain passes. That difference is what the permit…
Trains carry most visitors to Machu Picchu and the ride itself is worth something. Andean plains drop into cloud forest over a couple of hours and that shift unfolds outside the window whether…
Trains and entrance tickets get all the attention. The final stretch gets forgotten. The citadel sits on a ridge above Aguas Calientes and getting there requires a separate decision that blindsides…
Planning your travel to Cusco is an exciting endeavor that promises ancient ruins, vibrant local culture, and breathtaking landscapes. As the gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, the…
Reaching Cusco takes more planning than most trips. The city is deep in the Andes, high elevation, and that alone creates a whole set of complications that don’t show up when booking other…
New Year’s Eve in Cusco is its own thing entirely. The Plaza de Armas starts filling up hours before midnight, woodsmoke and roasting corn in the air, neon yellow already visible across the whole…
February in Cusco doesn’t feel like any other month. Brass music bounces off colonial stone walls before most people are even awake, color takes over streets that are normally just historic and…